Searching for Tufas Along the Amalfi Coast

For the next month, we are staying in Sant’Agnello, a place famous in the 18th and 19th centuries as a place for Bourbon princes and Russian millionaires to escape the “crowds” of Sorrento. The region still attracts the rich and famous, and it’s easy to see why: a dramatic coastline rising high above clear, blue-green waters; richly coloured, ornate buildings; charming shops;[…]

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Girl jumping from swing

In praise of fear

“I must not fear. Fear is the mind-killer. Fear is the little-death that brings total obliteration. I will face my fear. I will permit it to pass over me and through me. And when it has gone past, I will turn the inner eye to see its path. Where the fear has gone, there will be nothing. Only I will[…]

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Chulilla, Spain

A bumpy arrival: Spain 2020

It’s New Year’s Day. We leave Penticton on New Year’s Eve, connect in Vancouver AND Toronto, and finally land in Barcelona the next day, minus one bag. In a haze of jetlag, we submit a lost bag claim, acquire a local SIM card, find our tiny rental car. Then, feeling like we are part of some experiment on the torturous[…]

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After the storm

The sea spreads out before me, placid and blue, the wake of a solitary boat reflecting sparkles of sunlight. The very tops of the trees are barely stirring. The level of calm is incredible, considering that up until last night, there’d been strong maestrale winds for over a week, leaving us weary of the continual noise and violence. This rental[…]

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A day to remember

As we stood atop the high sea cliffs, the air was still crisp and damp. The morning dew made the orange-pink granite of Capo Pecora all the more vivid against the gently undulating, blue-green Mediterranean Sea. In the distance, a lone, stunted tree rose above the undergrowth, permanently bent to 90 degrees by the prevailing winds. The sea air carried[…]

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climbing at Jerzu, photo by Ulysse Richard

Last days in Tertenia

We left the house early to walk over to the Wednesday market. The sky was blue-blue, but the air was especially crisp and cold, perhaps only 5C. Based on the forecast, we’d been wondering if it would be too hot to climb at southwest-facing Quirra, but that morning it seemed unlikely to be a problem. We could see our breath[…]

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sky over Quirra Sardinia

A wind by any other name

In case you are imagining that while you are shivering through winter, we are lounging on a Mediterranean beach, umbrella drinks in hand, think again. It is January, after all. On average, January is the coldest month in Sardinia (highs of 14C), with the fewest hours of sunshine per day (4), and a mediocre amount of rain. We’ve been able to[…]

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