Smarter than you think

Dogs are different here. For that matter, so are cats. Most do seem to belong to someone, or maybe I should say that they have a home, because they don’t seem to be owned in the way our Canadian pets are. You will see the same scruffy mongrel taking the morning sun on the sidewalk in front of the same[…]

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climbing at Jerzu, photo by Ulysse Richard

Last days in Tertenia

We left the house early to walk over to the Wednesday market. The sky was blue-blue, but the air was especially crisp and cold, perhaps only 5C. Based on the forecast, we’d been wondering if it would be too hot to climb at southwest-facing Quirra, but that morning it seemed unlikely to be a problem. We could see our breath[…]

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goat in the town of Ulassai

The small life

I met an old man strolling outside the imposing church at the heart of Tertenia. I was surprised to see anyone around the church; it was the middle of a weekday afternoon. He said he was there for a funeral, and that he went to funerals because it was a chance to see people from the town and surrounding area.[…]

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Photo by Thomas Tucker on Unsplash

In search of comfort food

Ulysse declared that he needed pizza. On a hard climb the day before, he’d had two fingers in a snug pocket and had not fully extracted them before trying to make a big, powerful reach upwards. I heard the crack from where I belayed 20 m below and then he slumped onto the rope, cradling his right hand. At first,[…]

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